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基于数值模拟的厦门湾波浪特征研究
朱 君,蔡 锋,戚洪帅,郑吉祥
0
(国家海洋局第三海洋研究所,福建 厦门 361005;国家海洋局第三海洋研究所,福建 厦门 361005; 国家海洋局海岛研究中心,福建 平潭 350400)
摘要:
本研究使用成熟的SWAN模型对厦门湾的波浪场进行了1a 的数值模拟,通过与同期的珍珠湾波浪观测数据进行对比验证了模型的可靠性.根据模型的计算结果,分析了厦门湾年平均和夏、冬两季平均波高和波向的分布特征,厦门湾的风浪和涌浪组成,珍珠湾波浪观测海域主要的波浪能量生成和能量耗散过程.结果表明,厦门湾年平均有效波高较小,且有较明显的季节变化特征,夏季厦门湾平均有效波高较小,且湾内波向多为偏南向;冬季厦门湾平均有效波高相对较大,厦门岛北侧和东侧海域波向均为NE向.厦门湾湾内以风浪为主,涌浪较小,风浪、涌浪比较大,均在3以上;从湾外向湾内,风浪、涌浪比逐渐增加,至厦门湾南岸和泉州石井镇附近海域,风浪、涌浪比增加到5~6;在厦门湾东部和北部海域,风浪、涌浪比均在10以上.珍珠湾海域波浪最主要的能量耗散过程是由底摩擦引起的能量耗散,虽然冬季风速较大,但夏季风能输入的能量和白帽破碎耗散的能量均大于冬季;因冬季波浪相对较大,夏季底摩擦耗散的能量要小于冬季.
关键词:  海洋水文学  SWAN  风浪  涌浪  波浪能量  厦门湾
DOI:
基金项目:国家海洋局第三海洋研究所基本科研业务费资助项目(海三科2014025); 海洋公益性行业科研专项资助项目(201405037-1)
A study on characteristics of Xiamen waves based on numerical simulation
ZHU Jun,CAI Feng,QI Hong-shuai,ZHENG Ji-xiang
(Third Institute of Oceanography, SOA, Xiamen 361005, China;Third Institute of Oceanography, SOA, Xiamen 361005, China; Island Research Center, SOA, Pingtan 350400, China)
Abstract:
In this study the SWAN model is used to simulate the waves of Xiamen for one year, which is verified by comparing the mode simulation and simultaneous field observation at Zhenzhuwan. Here, the annual and seasonal average wave height and direction, the composition of wind-wave and swell and main sources and sinks of wave energy processes in wave observation station are addressed, respectively. Results show that the wave height in Xiamen Bay is relative small and has obvious seasonal variation. The mean wave height in summer is smaller, and wave direction in inner Xiamen Bay is southward, while the wave height in winter is relative larger, and wave direction in the north and east of Xiamen Island is northeastward. Xiamen Bay is dominated by wind-wave. Overall, the ratio of wind-wave and swell inside Xiamen Bay is bigger than 3 and gradually increases from the bay mouth to the bay head. In the south of Xiamen Island and the water nearby Shijing Town, the ratio is about 5~6, and exceeds 10 in the north and east of Xiamen Island. The main energy dissipation progress is related with the bottom friction. Both of the energy inputs by wind and energy dissipation by whitecapping in summer are larger than those in winter although wind in winter is stronger. Due to stronger waves in winter, the energy dissipation induced by bottom friction is relative smaller in summer than in winter.
Key words:  marine hydrography  SWAN  wind waves  swell  wave energy  Xiamen Bay

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