Abstract:
In this study the SWAN model is used to simulate the waves of Xiamen for one year, which is verified by comparing the mode simulation and simultaneous field observation at Zhenzhuwan. Here, the annual and seasonal average wave height and direction, the composition of wind-wave and swell and main sources and sinks of wave energy processes in wave observation station are addressed, respectively. Results show that the wave height in Xiamen Bay is relative small and has obvious seasonal variation. The mean wave height in summer is smaller, and wave direction in inner Xiamen Bay is southward, while the wave height in winter is relative larger, and wave direction in the north and east of Xiamen Island is northeastward. Xiamen Bay is dominated by wind-wave. Overall, the ratio of wind-wave and swell inside Xiamen Bay is bigger than 3 and gradually increases from the bay mouth to the bay head. In the south of Xiamen Island and the water nearby Shijing Town, the ratio is about 5~6, and exceeds 10 in the north and east of Xiamen Island. The main energy dissipation progress is related with the bottom friction. Both of the energy inputs by wind and energy dissipation by whitecapping in summer are larger than those in winter although wind in winter is stronger. Due to stronger waves in winter, the energy dissipation induced by bottom friction is relative smaller in summer than in winter.